Just like a year ago, we have some of the trends in the development of cosmetics for the next year. 

Longevity for the skin 

We think about anti-aging products we think about products that reduce the lines of expression and blurring of the skin. Although antiaging products have evolved in the last years of offering only cosmetic solutions, even though they have improved the quality of the elder skin, by 2024 cosmetics products will be more complete and will offer solutions to slow down skin cells aging. 

To this end, cosmetic industry has developed active ingredients, both natural and biotechnological, that act on the path of cellular transmission, delaying or eliminating senescent cells [1]. 

Use of artificial intelligence  

Artificial intelligence has been a great advance in many processes in the cosmetics industry. From the development of chatbots whose interaction with the customer is more fluid, to the development of new active ingredients. 

In May of this year, Google developed two suites, called Target and Lead, that make it possible to accelerate the search for new active ingredients. These suites reduce the time and cost of their development by predicting antibody structures more quickly and accelerating the design of de novo proteins. In addition, the Multiomics Suite tool allows to interpret and identify genomic data with greater speed and precision [2]. 

These and other tools based on artificial intelligence can be used for the effective development of new cosmetic active ingredients. 

Image by Markus Spiske from Pexels

Biosynthetic molecules 

The cosmetic industry has tended to look nature to find solutions to various skin problems. In some cases, we can find molecules from plant extracts, but also, we can find other ones, modifying their structure to make them more efficient and/or bioavailable. 

An example of them is Argireline, a peptide similar to a fragment of SNAP-25 that imitates the action of botulinum toxin. Argireline reduces muscular contraction by acting on the complete SNARE and reducing the fusion of vesicles loaded with neurotransmitters into the membrane of neurons [3]. 

The production of new active cosmetic ingredients that mimic the properties of natural molecules and include improved functions, will be trending for the year 2024. 

In this sense, AntalGenics has developed cosmetic actives that improve the properties of a natural compound. One of these ingredients is Calmapsin, it has been designed to protect sensitive skin by improving its hydration, protecting against oxidative properties and reducing skin sensitivity. For the treatment of the scalp, AntalGenics has developed Capsisilence, it reduces inflammation, delays dandruff reappearance, and decreases itching sensation. 

Postbiotics 

You may have heard about prebiotics, those ingredients that promote the growth of bacteria, but do you know about postbiotics? 

Image by Edward Jenner from Pexels

These ingredients are composed of non-viable microorganisms or some substance of microbial origin. These cosmetic ingredients, as we saw in a previous post, help to reestablish skin microbiota that is altered in skin diseases such as dermatitis, rosacea or psoriasis [4]. 

Upcycling 

Sustainability will continue to be a trend in the cosmetics industry during 2024. Specifically, upcycling (or circular economy) will continue to increase in the production of new cosmetic ingredients. 

As we saw in a previous post, upcycled ingredients seek to give a second life to already used raw materials, to create higher quality ingredients. An example of this is the ingredients of natural origin that use waste from the food industry to extract molecules with improving properties in skin care, such as olive extract for skin care or chickpea extract for skin care. hair care [5]. 

As we have seen, the cosmetics industry is moving towards greater sustainability in the development of its products, but also towards greater process efficiency through the use of artificial intelligence. 

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